In May of this year we arrived for the second time at Zion National Park in Utah. We had been wanting to return for some time.... lets say about forty years! When first we laid eyes on Zion in the summer of 1977, we had very different eyes and motives. Astounded always by the beauty of Nature, and fairly new to living in California and the west, this was our first exploration since driving across country and we, in our '73 blue dodge which came eventually to be known as "Blue Betsy" were out to see as much as we could in the ten days or so of vacation we had. We rolled into Zion that summer evening and with no reservation camped easily in an uncrowded woody campground by the Virgin River. Peace, quiet, beauty and the sound of the flowing river were ours for the two days we gave to Zion. We would be back someday, but there was so much more to see in Utah on our ten days out.
Fast forward finally getting back, we are slower, more appreciative and have much better cameras and car. We no longer camp and were lucky to get a reservation in Springdale three months out from our scheduled arrival and the cost of one night at an ordinary hotel was likely half the cost of our whole ten day vacation decades earlier. A perspective and memory I cannot ignore.
Our prime destination was to do the Angel's Landing hike. Up early on a very cool Friday morning we boarded a fairly crowded bus to the trail head, actually two busses as one stops at the visitor center from the town of Springdale and the trail busses are boarded separately. These busses require payment and a line; not too bad on an early Friday morning, but much like waiting for a New York subway at rush hour on the following Saturday.
When we started on the trial which is fairly easy for the first two and one half miles as it is paved and mostly switch backed there were many hikers already. Elevation gain of about 1500 feet with hiking poles, we let the jaunty pass and with our "new eyes" and cameras were happy to cruise along at "sight seeing" pace with many others doing much the same. This is a spandex & destination hike with the incredible challenge that awaits at the last half mile to Angel's Landing. The stunning vistas though could not be ignored no matter the pace adopted.
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| Morning light with Virgin River and the Patriarchs |
We savored every step.
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| view of the trail as elevation gained |
Through "the refrigerator", a narrow steep
canyon which gets little sun keeping it cool on through the 21 switchbacks of Walter's wiggles.
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| Refrigerator Canyon |
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| Walter's Wiggles |
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| Almost there |
Upon reaching the 1.1 mile round trip to Angel's Landing, Jim dropped his backpack and headed on up. The trail is narrow, steep and crowded as a bus with those grabbing for a spot on the chain to move ahead. The drop off is 1500 ft. straight down and if a misstep is made, it will be your last. News of a hiker that fell in March is fresh in my head along with the weakness I am feeling in my legs. I start, but turned around at the curve. Not for me and its about 11 am when we start and 11:45 by the time I get back after only about 1/8 mile on the trail.
When I get back, the backpack we left in the bushes is gone. Oops, thought we could trust hikers and looks like we can as a lady calls me and asks, "is this your pack?" She rescued it from a very aggressive squirrel who chewed through to the trail mix and had a major feast at the backpack's expense. My kindly new acquaintance and I are on the same journey right now, waiting for partners with health issues and a bucket list. The conversation is enjoyable and her husband returns to her relief at about 12:45. I am on my own now in distress concerned for Jim on the treacherous hike as gusts of wind pick up and scary thoughts burn through my head. Its close to 2pm by the time he navigates back. The text he sent never came through telling me not to venture up and that he would be resting at the top for about a half an hour.
The photos he took from the top show the beauty and why many treasure the hike and also why anybody with vertigo must never get near this hike.
Almost 2 hours later, Jim returns tired but triumphant! Congratulations to Jim! Very impressive!
A celebration of Pizza and beer on the outdoor balcony with a super Zion view tops off a great day!
