NORTH CASCADES NATIONAL PARK

We started out on August 11th for the 2 day drive to Winthrop, Washington where we would be staying during our visit to North Cascades National Park.  We got through the tedious drive "up the 5" to our first stop at Willows, CA.  The weather was hot and arriving earlier than expected, we took an evening walk and explored the local Dollar store across the street, as per usual finding at least $10 worth of good finds. A steamy sunset closed the day.

Up early the next day, we head for Albany Oregon, enjoying the ride through Shasta/Trinity areas.  The last time we were in this area was 2010 and Lake Shasta was as sad sight.  Way down in water, nary a boat to be seen.  After the heavy winter rains we were treated to Shasta again as an active resort with

many boats, water skiing and all the usual beach activity; a reassuring sight proving the feeling that

Shasta inlet

change is the only constant and Nature remains mysterious.
The natural look of Northern California as it spills into Oregon is similar with rolling brown hills, conifers, and oak.

Driving to our next destination, we need a break and stop at an inviting local winery in Southern OR just to take a walk.  The owner is very friendly and invites us into his winery/art gallery and chats us up quite a bit.  Initially we told him we don't drink much and wanted a walk, but he is more than happy to accommodate and we pay him $5 for some water and take in a brief walk on his property and are then on our way. 

We spend the night in Albany, Oregon with a nice walk and dinner in town at Appleby's.

Lake at the Winery

The morning finds us in rain as we head up the 5 through Portland and Seattle. Jim insisted we travel the 5 through Seattle and cross over east.  I had another route mapped out, but I relented. Big mistake.  Portland was hosting a bike-a-thon and streets closed with a detour. Luckily we were early risers and it was fairly easy to get through.  Not so Seattle.  A nightmare as 3 of  the freeway lanes were closed and took us more than 2 hours to get through.  Neither city is very scenic from the freeway and it made me think of what it may have looked like before all the industry and large fishing ports were so dominant.  East of Seattle was rather dreary as well with small towns that seemed isolated yet in a hurry.  We may never go again to North Cascades NP, but if we do that route is OUT!

We arrive delightfully at the east entrance of the park climbing out of the rain and dreariness of eastern Seattle area.

Rockport, WA as we head east and into the park

We explore the visitors' center, catch their video and head toward our destination in Winthrop to unpack, settle in and make ready for the next day.  After 2 days of straight driving, we are both needing a break and looking forward to our hikes.  Winthrop is a lovely little town restored to look like an old western town with the Methow River running through it.  We found it a very friendly place so unlike the outskirts of Seattle which would seem to encourage a Stephen King novel.

Methow River, Winthrop, WA

Our hotel is friendly with accommodating personnel, right on the river with beautiful gardens and surroundings, but the room is almost impossibly small.  We make do as we won't be spending much time there.

August 14, 2017, We decide Rainy Pass is a good area to explore and we plan a short hike to adjust after 2 long days of driving.  We are not sure of the hike and as we head up the trail, we discover we are on Cutthroat Pass trail which is a 10 mile round trip but decide to go anyway even though we get a late start.  The signs in North Cascades NP are rare and leave us guessing.  This trail is a part of the Pacific Crest Trail and as we start out the beauty of our surroundings overtakes us.

It is after 5 pm when we reach the pass and I want to head out rather quickly so as not to  be hiking in the dark but I am captivated by the views catch a shot of a marmot who I have disturbed as I walk around and explore the pass area.

We head down aware of the time and shadows.

This was a gorgeous hike and I wish we had started earlier so as to enjoy the trip back.  On the way up we took our time as the photo ops were tremendous.  We met a couple from Austria almost at the finish of their PCT trek and enjoyed the conversation and hearing about some of the adventures they experienced.  As we climbed we crossed streams and had a nice visit from the local Clark's Nuthatches as they swooped in around us and were happy to take almonds right from my fingers as I made the offer.  They were gone as quickly as they arrived.  When we made  the finish, it was dusk and we met another PCT trekker getting ready for the night.  More stories we were interested in hearing and he was very grateful for the water, fig bars and energy bars we gave him.  The end of a strenuous and beautiful day!  We need a good nights rest and some food for supper.  We have plenty to eat at the hotel. Our crab sandwiches are waiting along with some veggies, a shower and welcoming bed.

August 15, 2017  Sightseeing and Blue Lake Hike

We start the day at Stehekin overlook and picnic area for some great views and photo ops at the inviting overlook.

 Its a beautiful day and we are up early with a hearty breakfast and a long day of adventure planned.

Walk around Stehekin

 We like lingering here with these gorgeous vistas, but head off for our hike of the day.  Blue Lake here we come. 

Blue Lake hike is a wonderful plan for a busy day with only 4.4 miles round trip and 1000 ft gain in mostly shaded well maintained trail.







We start out roaming through the trees and enjoying the views of the mountains that increasingly peak through as we stop and enjoy.

The wildflowers are in bloom, the weather is perfect and the photos cannot quite capture the actual feeling of the outdoors and the enrapturing of Nature.






Clear Blue Lake appears and we spend some quality time resting, wading and enjoying the shared Peace with the few other people that have arrived here and are arriving. 

On our way down and back we meet the anniversary couple dressed in their original wedding clothes and taking pictures on their 30th wedding anniversary.  We get the opportunity to take their photo among the flowers.

This was a refreshing hike, fairly easy and great for a half day.  We have some more exploring to do on this busy day and head back towards the west side of the park to view Ross Lake area.





The drive back is about 40 miles, but it is so scenic and after 2 days and 14 miles of hiking we are enjoying the views and relaxation of light traffic and cooling breezy weather as the day moves into early evening. Ross Lake is formed by the damming of the Skagit River and is just spectacular.

Its getting towards 6:30 and we have had a long day.  Heading back with some great memories of the day and in anticipation of tomorrow's hike and plan for another long and early day.                                                               

Sunset on Methow River

August 16, 2017
The next day we started out for our most challenging hike up to Maple and Heather pass.

The day started out crisp and clear, the trail challenging, but taken by the beauty, we soon forget the climb ahead.  Parts of the trail as we move on are really treacherous and attention must be paid as the drop offs are very severe. 

Hiking on the scenery gets more beautiful.  At one point Jim trips near one of the cliffs and give us both a big scare, but is buffered by a flower bed. He is more careful as we move ahead.  The wild flowers and views of the lake are gorgeous.  We meet a man picking huckleberries and he points out what they look like and to be careful to choose these only.  They are quite good and a nice respite as we are about a quarter of the way.  We stop and converse further up with a hiker from Alaska who is originally from central Washington. He's glad to be back hiking where there are no grizzlies to be wary of.

Lake Ann from pass

As we are climbing, the clouds are forming which don't appear to be rain clouds yet, just the usual mountain afternoon formations and it is nice to have a cool down, though in this area, it is not hot, just warm and warmer with the uphill hike.   As we reach the top the views are spectacular and we encounter other hikers taking in the beauty at the rest stops which include rocks and hill sides by the side of the trail.  The pass is a ways up still, but most of the climbing is done.

We rest at Heather/Maple Pass, have a munch and assume out climbing is done.  But this is not the case as we ascend once again for about another mile before the trek down begins.  We are getting slower and chat along the way with other tiring hikers.  When we finally get to the ascent, a family is there and has been waiting for their son to return from the off road steep and sketchy climb we avoid as it is getting on in the day and we have the full trek down. The family does not pass us, and they are much faster so we are hoping all is well.  At first the downward path is easy, scenic and feeling cooler even though we are in open space with the late afternoon sun coming in and out of the clouds.  As we get down into the tree line again, it becomes rocky, and a trail full of navigating the rocks, climbing over larger ones, and avoiding the numerous tree stumps cluttering up the trail.  We are focusing on getting down as quickly as we can as the sun is disappearing behind the peaks and darkness is only a couple of hours away.

The downward trail is getting tedious and we are anxious to get down and get over to Rainy Lake before dark. Of course and as is usual, we meet another fellow hiker from Germany who is astounded as we are by the beauty here. We mention that the Alps and other European hikes must be quite spectacular as well, but he informs us that the trails are more travelled with other hikers, limiting the wilderness experience and solitude to be found in the Cascades and the west, a reality we had not thought of and much appreciated hearing.
About three quarters of the way down, the family with the wayward son passes us and we are relieved all is well.  We pass them again as they are seated at the best rest stop yet, a flat tree trunk and we are grateful to have a break from what was a seemingly never ending scramble over rocks, more rocks and tree stumps.  More to go, but it seems we have beaten the clock and will get our before dark.
Finally we reach the end of the trail and take the mile or so long wooden path trail to Rainy Lake.  Jim is spent as he has done his usual and taken more then he needs including the larger camera which he kept around his neck, bumping his chest the entire way down.  He welcomes a nice rest on one of the many rest benches along the way to Rainy Lake. I, on the other hand, move along hoping to get some photos before the sunlight is entirely gone. Also, I look forward to a nice quiet rest there at the Lake while waiting for him.  There is only one couple there when I arrive and am able to get some shots before dark.  In no time a group of quarreling adults with their kids wanting to get near the lake and the peace and quiet has evaporated.  They are still there when Jim arrives, sill bickering over safety and adventure per the kids.  Still as day goes into night, the feeling of a great day permeates our being and we walk back slowly to the car savoring our last long hike for this trip to North Cascades National Park.

Three shots of Rainy Lake as we were losing the sunlight.

August 17, 2018
Our last day was a rest day, just taking in the town of Winthrop, walking and resting along the river and enjoying the best lunch ever at the School House Restaurant.  Best healthy salad, smashed the nutrition away with amazing garlic fries and could never imagine finding a perfect Reuben here, but we did.  Maybe it was the German influence but it topped any Reuben either of us ever had.  We ate on the patio by the river moving away from the heat of the sun and chatting and sharing hiking and adventure stories with other guests and the friendly staff.  We head back to our motel early as the next day starts at 4:30 am to get to Dayton, Oregon for the pre-wedding gathering.

View of Schoolhouse Restaurant, Winthrop,WA

Flowers and green grass surrounded our motel

North Cascades provided, great scenery, challenging, gorgeous and varied uncrowded hikes, and wonderful memories.  I've been checking on the weather app since Christmas and the snowfall was often 9 or 10 days out of 10.  It is diminishing now in February as I finally finish this blog, to about 3 to 4 out of the 10 day forecast.  I am imagining how untouchably beautiful it is there in winter; after a storm with the sun gracing pure white snow, illuminating clear blue sky and crystal clear mountain lakes.  At last check over 35 feet of snow had fallen in the high country.  The many experiences of the refreshing, crisp mountain air of the more accessible Sierra is but a taste of what the high country in the Cascades must be.  But that will be left to the purity and secrets of Nature and hopefully we can return again one summer to this gem of the American West.

ZION NATIONAL PARK ANGEL'S LANDING TRAIL

In May of this year we arrived for the second time at Zion National Park in Utah.  We had been wanting to return for some time.... lets say about forty years!  When first we laid eyes on Zion in the summer of 1977, we had very different eyes and motives.  Astounded always by the beauty of Nature, and fairly new to living in California and the west, this was our first exploration since driving across country and we, in our '73 blue dodge which came eventually to be known as "Blue Betsy" were out to see as much as we could in the ten days or so of vacation we had.  We rolled into Zion that summer evening and with no reservation camped easily in an uncrowded woody campground by the Virgin River. Peace, quiet, beauty and the sound of the flowing river were ours for the two days we gave to Zion.  We would be back someday, but there was so much more to see in Utah on our ten days out.

Fast forward finally getting back, we are slower, more appreciative and have much better cameras and car.  We no longer camp and were lucky to get a reservation in Springdale three months out from our scheduled arrival and the cost of one night at an ordinary hotel was likely half the cost of our whole ten day vacation decades earlier.  A perspective and memory I cannot ignore.

Our prime destination was to do the Angel's Landing hike.  Up early on a very cool Friday morning we boarded a fairly crowded bus to the trail head, actually two busses as one stops at the visitor center from the town of Springdale and the trail busses are boarded separately.  These busses require payment and a line; not too bad on an early Friday morning, but much like waiting for a New York subway at rush hour on the following Saturday.

When we started on the trial which is fairly easy for the first two and one half miles as it is paved and mostly switch backed there were many hikers already.  Elevation gain of about 1500 feet with hiking poles, we let the jaunty pass and with our "new eyes" and cameras were happy to cruise along at "sight seeing" pace with many others doing much the same. This is a spandex & destination hike with the incredible challenge that awaits at the last half mile to Angel's Landing.  The stunning vistas though could not be ignored no matter the pace adopted.

Morning light with Virgin River and the Patriarchs

We savored every step.

view of the trail as elevation gained

Through "the refrigerator", a narrow steep
 canyon which gets little sun keeping it cool on through the 21 switchbacks of Walter's wiggles.

Refrigerator Canyon

Walter's Wiggles

Almost there

Upon reaching the 1.1 mile round trip to Angel's Landing, Jim dropped his backpack and headed on up.  The trail is narrow, steep and crowded as a bus with those grabbing for a spot on the chain to move ahead. The drop off is 1500 ft. straight down and if a misstep is made,  it will be your last. News of a hiker that fell in March is fresh in my head along with the weakness I am feeling in my legs.  I start, but turned around at the curve. Not for me and its about 11 am when we start and 11:45 by the time I get back after  only about 1/8 mile on the trail.

When I get back, the backpack we left in the bushes is gone.  Oops, thought we could trust hikers and looks like we can as a lady calls me and asks,  "is this your pack?"  She rescued it from a very aggressive squirrel who chewed through to the trail mix and had a major feast at the backpack's expense.  My kindly new acquaintance and I are on the same journey right now, waiting for partners with health issues and a bucket list.  The conversation is enjoyable and her husband returns to her relief at about 12:45.  I am on my own now in distress concerned for Jim on the treacherous hike as gusts of wind pick up and scary thoughts burn through my head.  Its close to 2pm by the time he navigates back.  The text he sent never came through telling me not to venture up and that he would be resting at the top for about a half an hour.
The photos he took from the top show the beauty and why many treasure the hike and also why anybody with vertigo must never get near this hike.

 Almost 2 hours later, Jim returns tired but triumphant!  Congratulations to Jim!   Very impressive!

A celebration of Pizza and beer on the outdoor balcony with a super Zion view tops off a great day!